A foraging vacation for flavours and peace of head in Epping Forest | Meals and drink


“It was like pushing my way as a result of to Narnia,” claimed Steve Woolnough of his key discover on Epping Forest’s western edge. Spotting a sunlit patch of grass, he’d crawled as a result of undergrowth to discover himself in a secluded bower of blackthorns. “These are trees that retain on offering,” he claimed. “I need to have experienced 4kg of sloes just from these three or 4.”

Those sloes, now getting created into gin, wine, cordial and a wickedly delicious jelly at his property in Highams Park, east London, are just portion of what has turn out to be an obsession and a lifesaver for Steve, 50, who was furloughed in Might from his task at a sporting activities and functions firm hit by Covid. Using the family members cockapoo, Billie, on very long forays after his three children had been again at college in September, he was struck by how weighty with inky blue-black fruit the forest’s lots of sloe trees had been – many thanks in portion to 2020’s warm, dry spring.

Having experienced durations of depression and nervousness in the earlier, Steve was alert to indications of the disease returning, and also mindful of purely natural approaches to beat it: physical exercise, getting outdoors, maintaining busy. Sloes had been his gateway drug, but a bit of investigate showed that the forest experienced a lot extra to provide.

Forager Steve Woolnough and his dog, Billie.
Forager Steve Woolnough (holding a jar of homemade jelly) and his dog, Billie. Photograph: Colin Boulter

It was the very finish of November when Steve, armed as he normally is with a simple stick with a hook on the finish, showed me round some of his favorite foraging grounds. He talked enthusiastically about plump, vitamin C-prosperous rosehips haws, fruits of the hawthorn tree, which are also superior for the cardiovascular system and firethorn berries, which can be created into a semi-sweet wine like an orange-tinted rosé.

I presumed it was a bit late in the time for foraging, but I was mistaken. A crab apple tree still experienced some yellow fruits – sweeter and larger sized late in the time. And when Steve led me to his private sloe grove – near in which the temperature-vaned gate of defunct Chingford soccer club protrudes from tangled greenery like some Angkorian temple – the trees had been still laden. “Sloes have hundreds extra flavour now: they are normally greater after the initial frost,” he claimed.

A small stroll away, a gnarled, ancient-searching hawthorn was covered in berries. Like most of us I’ve viewed these hundreds of moments but by no means bothered to flavor one. It was amazingly sweet and a bit mealy, like a ripe apple, and whilst you would not try to eat lots of in their purely natural state, Steve’s haw and apple jelly is tasty on toast. A different tip was to glance out for midland hawthorns – uncovered all in excess of southern England – with much less lobes on their leaves and greater fruit.

Red haw berries
Section of this autumn’s bountiful crop of haws. Photograph: Steve Woolnough

Subsequent, we came to some gorse bushes covered in yellow flowers. “The seeds and pods are poisonous, but the flowers are edible, Steve claimed. “Here, try out – they are type of pineapple-y and scent of coconut.” Although it’s not fairly a piña colada, the petals would brighten a wintertime salad fantastically, and can also be created into fruit tea, cordial or syrup, or the buds pickled and eaten like capers. Expend time with foraging people and gin will be normally be stated faster or afterwards: positive sufficient, Isle of Harris Distillers in the Hebrides has just launched a wild gorse tincture for flavouring G&Ts.

We had been as well late for Steve’s other terrific discover: on open up floor inside earshot of the A1009 was a paradise apple tree – bare of fruit by now, even though the floor was covered in largish crimson windfalls. Sweet sufficient to try to eat raw, this is Malus pumila, the wild apple of legend, native to japanese Europe and utilised as rootstock for most cultivated apples. “You can see this from the road, but no one understands about it,” he claimed.

Not everyone, of training course, has a previous royal looking forest on their doorstep, but that shouldn’t prevent any forager. On a inexperienced amid household streets Steve experienced noticed a “common pear” tree, once again laden with fruit – lesser and more durable than commercially grown pears, but with a terrific flavour. He pointed to his major rucksack: “I stuffed that three moments.” The pears are now fermenting into perry at his property. And no, it will be very little like Babycham.

Bottles of homemade sloe cordial
Steve’s batch of cordials. Photograph: Steve Woolnough

A different gem of guidance from Steve was that fruits grow in in-among places, in which one factor is turning out to be an additional. They need to be in which the daylight receives in, so edges of woods, by fields, streets, golfing courses or parks are superior places to glance.

Just one this sort of liminal area was the banking institutions of the River Lea among Walthamstow and Tottenham Marshes: as a boy or girl in the seventies Steve gathered horseradish there with his father, and he’d been recently with his personal son, Louka, nine. The plant appears to be like a tall dock leaf, and has a faucet root that seems to go down for at any time, but it’s achievable, he claimed, to dig up a six-inch duration. (Leading of Steve’s Xmas record this calendar year is a fold-up shovel for just this intent.) And whilst he felt self-acutely aware at initial, grubbing about and collecting items in community places, he claimed he’s grown oblivious.

His shelf of goodies now involved three major jars of pickled and creamed horseradish. The latter is terrific with roast beef dinners, but he claimed a dice or two of the raw root provides zing to any casserole.

Steve Woolnough with writer Liz Boulter in Epping Forest.
Steve Woolnough with writer Liz Boulter in Epping Forest. Photograph: Colin Boulter

The foraging habit has created Steve glance on everything with a clean pair of eyes. Sea buckthorn berries are a common foraged component – I’ll very long bear in mind a tart sea buckthorn stir-fry created by chef Mark Hartstone at cafe-with rooms La Fosse in Dorset. As the identify indicates, it grows wild in coastal places of the United kingdom, but Steve experienced noticed it in a few front gardens and claimed he was tempted to knock and talk to to pick some. In the meantime he’s investigating building pesto from some of the forest’s hundreds of thousands of acorns (leached to take out the bitter tannins).

With wild fruits, Steve emphasised the worth of making certain there would still be some to acquire in coming seasons. Although he utilised his hooked stick to capture large branches and convey their fruit inside achieve, he was very careful by no means to split them. “That way mould can get in and destroy the tree.”

Apart from shielding his mental well being, Steve claimed, his outside enthusiasm experienced attained other elements as well: his eyesight experienced been enhanced by paying very long days gazing all over the forest instead than staring at a display screen. “Now I can place a crop of hawthorn berries at 200 metres.”

This Xmas will be like none any of us can bear in mind, but those people who can connect with nature’s bounteous items – tangible and if not – may perhaps have a merrier time. Specifically if, like Steve, they have portions of homemade wine, gin and perry to toast the time with.

Follow Steve on Instagram @furloughedforager

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